Horse Riding again

Lashi Lake:

We just woke of our own accord in the morning, ready to find out how difficult it would be to plan a trip out to Lashi Lake. The morning was clear, crisp, and just a bit chilly. The altitude of the city was high enough to have been reported to give some people altitude sickness, but both of us were fine. We dress and prepared to greet the puppies down stairs. They were bustling about by this hour, it was about 9am, and happy to see people. Fan asked the inn attendant about getting a ride out to Lashi lake and how much it would cost. The attendant contacted a driver and informed us that it would be a bit expensive. Despite the fact that I felt 120 RMB wasn't excessive (20 USD) the truth was that it is excessive for the area, so we went to have breakfast and ask around about finding a better deal. We sat down and had some breakfast pizza and a bowl of noodles for breakfast. The 'pizza' consists of wheat breading with eggs and green onions with a bit of cilantro sprinkled inside. It is then folded in thirds and sliced into four pieces. The noodles had a chicken broth and were made of rice. Bits of cilantro and green onions floated in the broth as well as a nice portion of red pepper. The Southern provinces seem to enjoy very spicy and heartily seasoned dishes, even for breakfast. Since we were both still a slight bit hungry, Fan ordered what she referred to as a 'pancake' but was just a fried flat bread, thick with multiple layers and a crisp exterior. The bread was all cooked in a cast iron flat pan over a fire at the front of the restaurant just off the street. All of the food, though unfamiliar to me, was quite delicious, and the flavor wasn't too strong either. Typically I'm not much for spicy foods in the morning but I found it to be pleasing and a great start to an exciting and adventurous day.

Fan conversed with all the tourists at the table in the restaurant and found out that the trip could be much cheaper than the 120 RMB we were quoted, and also found that we could rent bicycles to go out to the lake. While she talked with the tourist, two women in red coats walked up, asking if we were looking for a trip out to Lashi lake, and offered to take us there for 5 RMB each. Having done research, and being well aware that once we were out to the lake, we would have to take a trip up the mountain on horse back, Fan prepared to bargain the price for the trip up the mountain down to 100 RMB per person. When we arrived at the lake, there was a posting of the prices for the trips up the mountain and a sales man pushing for the 280 RMB trip. Fan discussed the price with him in heated detail for about five to 10 minutes and got the price down to about half. Once we were on the horses, we were in for quite a ride. The guide handed Fan a thin twig to use as a switch for the horse since she would be in the lead. The trail was beautiful. The water for all of Li Jiang started up in the mountains here, and the small streams of it trickled to the lake beside the path.

As we rode past other groups of tourists, they all said 'Hello' and 'Ni Hao' to us. Everyone seemed to be in good spirits this after noon. We stopped at a small cluster of native houses who had set up some seating for guests under small wooden covers. The water before us was called the 7 colors lake. It was created by the source of the water. The natural spring that poured from the mountain was touted to make you healthier and fix your cough. Despite the clarity and chill of the water, I was unable to bring myself to drink any of it.

We rested for a while, here at the source of the water, and had two BBQ potatoes each. Chinese peel the skin off their potatoes, so I followed suit. The inner potato was just as delicious as any baked potato I have ever had. As soon as we finished our tea and potatoes, we were setting off back to the lake for our trip in a small boat out into the lake.

Fan requested that we have lunch before our outing onto the lake, and the food was a set meal. The cooks make the same meal for everyone, charging 10 RMB each. There was a potato dish, a pork dish, and sugared tomatoes for desert. Of course, the tea and rice came with the meal. It was a decent deal and filling after the ride. I couldn't complain.

There were ducks and small birds around the lake, floating and enjoying the waning sun. By the time we set out in the metal 'pig-trough' boat, we were full and happy. I was so very glad I didn't have to ride a horse anymore. I adore horses and love riding them, but the two hour ride had left me sore and raw. I experienced the same issues I had from the ride in Mongolia. Despite my immediate desire and love for riding, I was in no shape to get back on a horse any time soon.

The two women who had brought us to the lake, also joined us. They appeared quite happy, and ready to guide us to our next location. The village of Sue He is one of the Naxi villages in Li Jiang that is touristy, but is reported to still maintain a semblance of normal Naxi culture, unlike the part of Old Town Li Jiang we were staying in.

Out on the lake, our guide sang a bit of a song, then conversed with Fan about how he wanted us to run away to Li Jiang and not go home. The area was beautiful, but neither of us was ready to set up camp in such a remote area of China. While pushing us back to the shore, he continued to chat with Fan. The two guides pretty much ignored the conversation, and Fan continued to insist that we were going home.

Su He:

We made it back to the mini-van that had driven us out to the lake and rode on to Sue He. The trip took between five and ten minutes. We hadn't yet paid the guides or the driver yet, and were very curious how much the trip was going to cost us. When we arrived at Sue He, the driver dropped us off near the police station, and the guide lead us into the city. Once in the city, our guide requested 20 RMB each. Surprised at getting off so cheap, neither of us argued about the price, it was more than reasonable for the fuel and time they had all spent.

Inside the village, the sky was clouding up a bit, but the sun still cut across the roofs and colorful paint of the buildings. The streets and buildings were precise duplicates of the ones in the part of town that we stayed in. There were quite a few hotels, and behind them, resident dwellings. There were a few photography studios and the same shops lining the street that were in the other parts of town. The prices in these shops were more reasonable and the tourist numbers were far lower. In one of the stores, there was a photo set up with a Chairman Mao dummy. Fan took a photo of me with Chairman Mao, then I took a photo of her with him. Each of us paid 5 RMB for this privilege.

As the sun began to set, we discovered a small store with scarfs and a Naxi Princess costume. Fan convinced me, with a bit of cajoling, to pay the 10 RMB to wear the costume and take photos in it. The costume consisted of a skirt, shirt, two beaten silver neck adornments, and a large silver crown. Though I felt ridiculous in the get up, I was happy to have a ridiculous image to mark the journey. While removing the costume, the shop attendant informed Fan that the costume actually cost her 3,000 RMB.

Fan refused to try on the outfit, but we snapped a few photos of her on the bridges over the stream in the town. The sunset was beautiful and the light was perfect. Our adventure ended with dinner in a small local restaurant. We realized, once we sat down to eat, that this small place wasn't made for tourist, like the two we had eaten at the previous day. This dinner was still yak meat, but the other patrons were all residents of the town. We also had a green bean dish and a bowl of rice each.

Once finished, Fan convinced a driver to take us back to a transfer station in Li Jiang proper. The city was just as bustling and modern as any Chinese city I have ever experienced. The price for a bottle of water in the city was 1.5 RMB compared to the 2 RMB and 3 RMB they charge in any tourist area. Fan chatted with some locals and found out that our hotel wasn't far enough for us to need to take a taxi, so we just walked the 10 minutes back to the Hotel. Taxis aren't allowed on the streets of Old Town Li Jiang, so it would have been silly to try and take one there anyway.

We showered and went to bed, ready to conquer the mountain in the morning.