The air up there!

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain:

Before Fan came to bed, she managed to wrangle us some companionship for the trip up to the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. There was a couple staying next door to us that was also going to make the trip, so we knew that it would be cheaper with more of us and the had already set up a taxi for the ride. We went out to have breakfast at the same place again, and found another companion for the trip. Fan convinced a honey-mooner that since his wife was off to Lugu lake, he should join us as well.

We all caught the cab that the couple had arranged for the trip to the mountain. The receptionist at the inn insisted that we take two bottles of oxygen. If we didn't use them, we wouldn't have to pay for them, but they were only 15 RMB each if we needed to use them, and if we got to the mountain and needed to purchase one, they would be between 30 and 40 RMB. We figured we had better be safe than sorry. I was certain that I would probably need them by the time we reached the peak of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.

The Honey-mooner who's wife had set out to Lugu Lake sat next to the driver in the front. He and the driver got in a very heated exchange that Fan said was about his fear that the driver would cheat him. I wasn't sure if I should be worried or if I should be thankful that he was making sure we wouldn't be cheated. Once we arrived at the gate to the mountain, we all had to pay 80 RMB to enter the park. This fee was a normal fee in Li Jiang for maintaining the Old Town in it's current condition. We were each given a receipt to prove that we paid the fee, and were able to enter several parts of Old Town Li Jiang with this receipt.

The drove on a bit into the park that surrounded the mountain. The park was in the 3000 meter range, and Fan was feeling the thin air. It was difficult for her to keep up with the rest of the group, and I was in no mood to rush. The couple and the lonely groom were headed directly to the line for the gondola up to the top of the mountain. We handed over our 120 RMB and let him buy the tickets for us. The system they used to fill the gondolas was the same as any official business in China...take a number.

We were going to have to wait at least and hour and a half to go, so we set out to experience the White River. The White river runs from the top of the mountain and has the clearest, bluest water I have ever seen outside of a swimming pool.The water was brilliant, and the foliage around the area was nothing less than spectacular in it's reds, yellows, oranges and light greens. I have never experienced such a gorgeous, crisp atmosphere with such amazingly beautiful water. There were 3 man-made dams where the bus stopped for us to view the river. The first of the three was amazing. It was a multi-teared dam that made puddle-like steps of water as it went down. The second and third dams were waterfalls, but just a little too uniform to be natural. Between the first and second dams were a few yaks with saddles on. Several tourist were sitting on them, taking photos for 10 RMB each. The yaks looked so fuzzy and lovable, I just wanted to pet their heads... I resisted the temptation, feeling they may be quite irritable considering the number of tourist they have to see every day.

We made our way down to the last damn and then loaded ourselves onto the little trolley-like tram that took us back to the buses so we could get in line for the gondola. Little did we know, when we arrived back at the terminal we had initially bought the tickets at, we had to catch another bus to get to the line for the gondola. We then waited in the line for the gondola for 2 hours. By the time we got to the head of the line, we were about ready to say forget it. The wind was preventing the gondolas from running regularly, and even though we could get in now, the thought of motion sickness occurred.

Once inside the tiny metal structure, we were all fine, and the wind wasn't strong enough during the ride up to give any of us any trouble. The sky was still almost completely clear. There were a few clouds that formed from the top of the mountain, but none that lingered long. They all seemed to evaporate quickly into nothingness.

Cold Oxygen Ahead:

I took my first tentative step onto the snow in my worn-out old Nike's. The slick packed snow didn't work well with the rubber treads in my shoes, there was nothing for them to grip, and I slipped a little as I made my way to the wooden walk-way. The sun was harsh and bright at this altitude. We started to brave the many steps to the top of the mountain. Fan was breathing heavily, and her lips were starting to turn purple. The temperature, as we had expected, was very cold and tended to bit through thin layers. Fortunately, we had both planned for this and wore our down coats and thick scarves. It took us quite a while to make it to the top. Fan had to stop at least 5-6 times to use the oxygen. I was very concerned, but the two men in the group tended to her and made sure she was breathing enough oxygen to make it. Once at the top, an altitude of 4,680 meters, we took the opportunity as a photo break. We all got shots at the top and then headed down. We were the last to descend from the peak, and thus had the honor of being the last tourists on the gondola. I had held out pretty well, not needing any oxygen, just a few breaks. I surprised myself.

Intestinal Anticipation:

Once back in the taxi, we were all happy to be down from the mountain, as beautiful as it was. We rode back into town and had dinner at a hot pot restaurant. The couple we were with really wanted to have intestines in the hot pot, and were polite enough to ask me if it was ok. Of course I couldn't say no, but this also meant that I would have to try some. I wasn't going to be rude. I waited as they lit the fire to the table and started the broth boiling, preparing myself to try something I had always told myself I wouldn't ever want to eat. I am aware that sausage is packed in intestines, but this is completely different. I didn't really know what to expect. When they brought out the plate of meats, black sheep meat and intestines, and slid it into the pot of bubbling water, I sat and watched the slices of rubber-hose looking intestines roll around. My mind went through every possible flavor/texture I could to prepare myself for the worst. It certainly looked clean. It wasn't discolored or slimy looking. It really, literally looked like medical grade rubber hose chopped up into bite sized pieces and slid into the broth. As soon as the boiling water had cooked the intestines and meats enough, I was encouraged to be the first to try the intestines. Of course, having prepared, I was ready. My real first impression was that it tastes exactly like it looks... flavorless and a bit chewy. The broth was a great compliment to the nothing flavor. The bit of chicken-like broth flavor was easy to handle. I must admit, I didn't chew it for long, being that I knew at some point I would realize what I was eating and might not be able to swallow it. I tried a few more pieces with the same result, little flavor and lots of chewing. I wasn't impressed or disappointed with this little flavor/texture adventure. The other dinner participants were greatly impressed that I actually ate some. They liked that I was willing to try their foods. Why not, they had obviously welcomed me into the group without question or discrimination. These were the kinds of people I enjoyed spending time with.

Just after the meal started, the lonely groom's wife appeared to share dinner with us. She appeared to be a very independent and strong woman. She shared her pears from Lugu Lake with us all and then told Fan about the beauty of the lake and the 'Most Hansom Man' in Lugu Lake and how she was a bit disappointed since he had gotten older. She convinced Fan that we should go in the morning. Fan had been trying to decide if we should just stay in Li Jiang or take the long ride out to Lugu Lake.

We finished the meal and paid the bill then caught a taxi back to Old Town with a bag full of scraps for the dogs. We were ready for a long trip the next day, not knowing how we were really going to get to Lugu Lake, just prepared for the bus ride.

Upon our arrival at the inn, the receptionist let us know that another couple was going to the Lake and we could join them on their bus. It would be a total of 120 RMB for the round trip. It sounded reasonable and we were prepared to go. Now the trick would be to get enough sleep despite our excitement.