Heading out:
Our ride was going to arrive between 7:20am and 7:40am, so we woke early and hurried to store our excess baggage with the inn and lugged our backpacks down to wait for the bus driver. We expected that we could get a small amount of rest on the bus. The bus driver arrived at about 7:30am just as he had reported he would. Fan tried to ask him how long the ride would be, but he wouldn't give her a straight answer. When the other couple came down, Fan tried again, and all he said was that there were several factors that would determine whether or not we could make it in the expected 6-8 hours. He said there was a great possibility of traffic jams for several reasons, but wouldn't go into much detail, frustrating Fan. She decided that she didn't like the driver much when he wouldn't give her a straight answer. We walked with him down the streets filled with nothing but residents on this Saturday morning. All the tourist were sound asleep from a night of partying. We exited Old Town and loaded onto the bus. There was only one other occupant of the bus, obviously a resident of the city, waiting when we loaded. The driver told us he was going to stop at a transfer station and that we would leave from there soon, but had time to catch some breakfast there.
We arrived at the transit station and I was out of tissues and wanted to pick up some juice and water for the trip, so before finding breakfast, we stopped in the nearest convenience store and grabbed some odds and ends. I quickly stashed my 10 new packs of tissues in my purse and threw the water and orange juice in my backpack as we sat down at the nearest restaurant to have a breakfast of bean Kurd (we had tried this the morning before) that I poured sugar into in kind mimicry of the others at breakfast. It was not bad but we ate quickly as to not miss the 8:20am departure time.
Once we arrived back at the bus, we returned to our seats and a bus attendant came to collect our 70 RMB for the ride. We were settled and ready for the trip with our bellies lightly filled. The ride promised to be interesting as soon as I heard that there were 5 mountains involved. On our way to the first mountain, the driver began his information session. He started by touting his amazing driving skills. This was to say that he informed us that he was a great driver, one of the best in these mountains. He then listed the three reasons for delays on the mountain roads. 1.) Traffic jams due to construction. The road we were about to travel on was currently undergoing major renovations and this involved a lot of rock moving. 2.) Traffic jams due to rock slides. The passes were through the mountains, and in some places the rocks were loose. 3.) Traffic jams due to the local market. The people in the mountain towns were not as keen to stay off the road during their market trading. The roads were theirs, and they would use them as such.
All of this speech was translated by Fan, but none of his attitude was lost in the translation. As we started into the mountain road, he continued to tell us how good he was at driving as he flew past other buses and mini-vans on the road. He teetered us back and forth with immense speed on the turns. He reported that the best driver in the mountains was faster than he was and 50% of his passengers vomited. We stopped about once an hour to use the restroom, but I refused to use it the first two hours.
After the last stop before lunch, we had a visitor join us on the bus. A honey bee stowed away on someone's shirt and started buzzing about in the bus. The bee narrowly escaped getting squished by the male of a Beijing couple directly behind us who insisted it must be eliminated. In front of us was a Shanghai couple, the male of whom wore Buddhist prayer beads on this wrist. The bee landed on their window and with his quick thinking, he captured it in a clear plastic cup from a snack he had earlier and used newspaper to capture it. It escaped and the procedure was duplicated, capturing it on the glass and sliding the newspaper under it to keep it from escaping. This time he succeeded in reapplying the cap to the container and put the bee safely in his tiny trash bag.
We stopped for lunch in a larger town just over the second of the five mountains. As we entered the restaurant, the mews of a tiny kitten filled the courtyard area where the tables were set up. I searched for about 5 minutes to find the source of the mewing, then I saw him. On top of the roof to the cooking area, a orange striped kitten who couldn't have been more than two months old yowled. It was the cry of a stuck kitten, though there was obviously a way down for him. One of the restaurant attendants poked a long mop handle at him and he skittered to the other side of the roof, out of sight.
This meal was more like a buffet, but cost us 10 RMB per dish. We pick a beef dish and a veggie dish. The food was good and we sat at a table with several others, all sharing our dishes. The Kitten reappeared, once again mewing just as everyone was paying their bills. We reentered the bus and were off again. It wasn't until about an hour later that I absolutely had to use the restroom. I was in for a very unpleasant restroom trip. I can't say it was really unexpected, but there was no pretending it was anything but disgusting. If you read any forums or descriptions of really disgusting restrooms in China, this would fit the worst of them. I will not go into detail unless personally requested, but for future note, this trip is not for those with cleanliness issues since this is the ONLY way to get to Lugu lake from Li Jiang. There is no avoiding the 8 hour trip or the restroom breaks in these sorts of restrooms.
Entry to Paradise:
We arrived at the entrance to Lugu lake where we were requested to pay an 80 RMB (39 RMB for students) entrance fee. Once everyone had paid the young jewelry adorned bus attendant, he took the fee out to the park ticketing office and paid, returning with tickets and discs for everyone. This stop took a total of about 7 min. and we were off again.
The road was just as winding and bumpy as previously, but the anxiousness took the edge off the bumps. We reached a scenic spot and stopped for a break. The people filed out of the bus to listen to a presentation at the map while I, not understanding a word of what he said, went to use the restroom. This bathroom charged 1 RMB for use, but was considerably cleaner and obviously well kept. I was more than willing to pay 1 RMB for the use of this restroom after the ride up to the mountain. Fan explained that he was just doing a bit of advertising and explanation of the area. It was nothing to get excited about.
We walked out to the scenic overlook and took some photos, then headed back to the bus. When we got on, the bus driver started asking where we should go next. He was trying to convince everyone that it would be the perfect time to take the gondola up to the top of Goddess Mountain and that he would drive the bus there if we all wanted to go. Fan protested that she just wanted to go to the hotel. The bus driver asked people to raise their hands if they wanted to go to the mountain. Only one person raised her hand. Eventually he had the bus convinced that they would all go to the Goddess Mountain, but Fan insisted that he take us to the transfer station so we could just get another bus to the hotels. The bus driver agreed to take us to the transfer station then headed further down the path.
Once again the driver stopped, but this time at a small harbor to the lake that had several pig-trough boats stationed with several boat owners. All but 6 of us were convinced to load into a boat and take a ride out to the center of the lake. There was Fan and I, the couple from Shanghai that sat in front of us, and a younger pair. Fan talked to the bus driver again, insisting that we just wanted to go to the hotels, so the bus driver told us to get back into the bus and he would drive us there. He obviously knew the length of time it would take for them to get out to the island in the center of the lake and back, because he was diving the bus filled with all their backpacks and belongings in his usual break-neck fashion. Once he stopped the bus near the hotels, all 6 of us filed out, hunting for a nice hotel. The pair behind us consisted of a girl from Southern China and a man from Hong Kong. The Shanghai couple had already booked a hotel and went directly there. We hunted for a good hotel with the girl and man, whom we found out had just met in Li Jiang and were traveling together because it was easier to get around in pairs rather than alone. The hotel they had planned to stay in was beautiful, and the waitress at the bar, who was also a hotel receptionist, spoke decent English as well as understanding everything I said. She told us there was only one lake view room left and it had a double bed instead of two twins. This wouldn't suit the other pair, though she did have some twins available that weren't lake view. The pair went off to find another hotel, while we booked the room with the lake view, since that was the real reason we spent 8 hours on the bus. The view was amazing and the room was so refreshingly clean. It was even better than the inn in Li Jiang. The price was a bit higher, 120 RMB a night, but completely reasonable considering that we could watch the sun rise from the bed.
After settling the matter of a hotel, and stowing our back packs, we set out to watch view the water and find a good dinner. We walked down to the water's edge and saw a sign for the pig-trough boats and their fees. Once talking about what we really wanted to do for a boat ride, we were greeted with a boat owner. The boat owner debated with Fan about the price of the trip she wanted. What she wanted to do was to go out to the island in the center of the lake, then travel to the shores of the Goddess Mountain and maybe take the gondola to the top, then take the trip back to the hotel. The boat owner told her that the price for such a trip would be 120 RMB after much debate, but if we could find more people, it would be cheaper for all of us.
Fan decided that she wasn't sure we found the best hotel. Since the festivities of the night didn't start until 9pm we were hungry and in search of dinner. The man Fan had debated with about the price of the boat ride, kindly offered to introduce us to the Grandmother of the village. We had heard that you could eat dinner with Grandmother and that you would pay whatever donation you felt like contributing. We followed the man to Grandmother's house and he knocked and introduced us to Grandmother's grandson who kindly informed us that Grandmother hadn't cooked anything, but we were more than welcome to meet her.
Grandmother's House:
The house was constructed with a wide courtyard in the center. The courtyard was barren, but nicely open to the sky and wind. Directly across from the entrance door was the door to Grandmother's room. The temperature outside was a bit chilly, but as soon as we entered Grandmother's room, the wind was cut and the cozy fire near Grandmother's bed made the temperature perfect.
Grandmother was a small, slightly hunched, beautifully wrinkled 82 year old woman with silver hair wearing a lovely purple dress. Her skin was a color graced by years of sun and weather. Her hands were knotted from years of use and she moved very little. Her grandson added kindling to the fire, brought the wine out for us to drink, and answered her every whim. He also acted like translator between Fan and Grandmother, since Grandmother spoke very little Mandarin and Fan spoke absolutely none of the local Mousu language.
Fan asked for me how life had changed for her since she was a child. The old woman answered through her grandson that she had been a slave as a child and when Chairman Mao's revolution succeeded, she was freed from her slavery and was permitted to live a life that she chose. She was very thankful for the People's revolution and to Chairman Mao. Fan then asked about how she felt about the tourism, despite her reluctance since she expressed that it was a very complex question and the woman may not understand since her education was limited. Her response was that she was grateful for the advances the tourism has allowed them.
We were then offered a shot of the local wine that the Mousu women make. I asked, through Fan, how it was made. The grandson couldn't answer, he said the women all did the work. He asked Grandmother and she said it was a wheat based drink with fruits added. The drink had a very distinct flavor. It was not unpleasant, just very distinct.
Fan mentioned that we would be attending the dance that night and the grandson said he would be there. Fan made him promise to invite me to dance, which she only announced to me after he had agreed.
Once we finished our conversation with Grandmother, she agreed to let us take photos with her. We then left. I had a desire to leave some money with the family, but Fan insisted that since we didn't have dinner with them, there was no need. The grandson showed us their Buddhist worship room, which we were followed to upstairs by three small puppies. Two brown and one black. He also showed us a preserved pig. The pig was killed, emptied of all it's organs and bones, except the skull, then filled with salt. After filling the pig with salt, it was then sewn shut, lasting for years with out refrigeration. The puppies followed us back downstairs and into the courtyard again, where we thanked the grandson and left, the little back puppy following us out. He retrieved the puppy and waved good bye.
Dinner and Dancing:
With out stomachs still empty, we headed back toward the hotel, hoping to find a restaurant on the way. As we exited the alley way, we were greeted with a group roasting a piglet. Fan and one of the men had an exchange that she said went something like this.
"Would you like to eat this pig? You can have the whole pig for 60 RMB," Which was reported to be a scam on the internet.
Thinking quickly, Fan replied,"No thanks, she is American and they don't eat pork."
There was quite a bit of laughing and I totally recognized them saying that I was American back and forth. When Fan explained what she had said to me, I reported to her that she could use me as an excuse any time she needed to.
We found a restaurant near where we were staying, and noticed the Shanghai couple was eating there. Fan asked them what was good, and the recommended yak and frog legs. The restaurant was like a Korean BBQ place with a grill on the table and hot coals put in the grill. Fan ordered yak, potatoes, and some lettuce leaves. The procedure for putting the articles on the grill consisted of coating them with oil then placing them on the outer edges of the grill to let them cook properly. We even grilled the lettuce leaves. It was and interesting meal, and quite delicious, if not completely sanitary. I was finding that things in this area were not entirely sanitary and I would have to be a little guarded about what I ate here.
Once we finished our meal, it was still a bit early so we decided to head out around the surrounding area and check out the hotels to see if we could find a better deal for the next night.
We found a better hotel at a better price which Fan managed to get the price down even further. The hotel had spacious lofts build entirely of wood and decorated in fabrics, each room of a different color. We loved the rooms, but decided to continue to walk around the area and find out what the rest of the hotels were like. We walked all the way out onto a tiny peninsula that had the most expensive hotels. They were all lovely, one of which had no wall, only a large glass pane facing the sunrise. There was no balcony though, and the room was a bit smaller than other rooms at this price. We continued looking. Fan insisted on looking at the last hotel on the peninsula, the one she had hoped to book for our stay, but it had already been completely booked for the time we would be there. The hotel rooms had balconies that when you walked out on them, the water was underneath you. Fan debated with the bartender for a while, trying to get him to show her a room, but he refused, since all the rooms were booked and he wouldn't open a room that had an occupant. One of the guys in the hotel overheard the conversation and was currently staying in the hotel and offered to let us see his room. He was also from Beijing and was to be on the same flight home as we were. The room was just as beautiful as we expected, and we thanked him for letting us just have a peak at it. Fan's curiosity was finally satiated, and we headed back to the hotel with the colored rooms to book the next night with them.
Once our hotel for the next night was set, we headed to the dances, ready to experience the culture of the native peoples. We were a little late, so we rushed to sit behind the dancing. The colorfully dressed people were all dancing in a circle around a central fire. They would dance until the song was over, then the women would warm their hands at the fire, and the men would start the next dance. There were a series of dances, then the crowd was separated into the locals on one side of the fire and the visitors on the other. This was an emulation of the courting ritual that the locals used to practice. The men would sing at the women and the women would respond with a song. It would go back and forth for a while, so first the locals sang a song at us, then our side responded with a song. This went on for a while, then the single singing started. First it was a man that sang across and picked a woman from the locals to sing. Then a local man picked a woman from our side and back and forth for a bit. The crowd on our side begged that I sing something. Fan sided with them and convinced me to sing something. I was the very last person to sing, and of all things, I chose to butcher the National Anthem. It was the only thing I could think of quickly. My brain tends to shut down when I am on the spot like that. I mutilated the song, everyone cheered, then it was over. I was elated to be out of the spotlight. The locals sang a farewell song and we all filed out.
I was shaking from the nerves until I fell asleep.
Sunday, November 30, 2008
The air up there!
Jade Dragon Snow Mountain:
Before Fan came to bed, she managed to wrangle us some companionship for the trip up to the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. There was a couple staying next door to us that was also going to make the trip, so we knew that it would be cheaper with more of us and the had already set up a taxi for the ride. We went out to have breakfast at the same place again, and found another companion for the trip. Fan convinced a honey-mooner that since his wife was off to Lugu lake, he should join us as well.
We all caught the cab that the couple had arranged for the trip to the mountain. The receptionist at the inn insisted that we take two bottles of oxygen. If we didn't use them, we wouldn't have to pay for them, but they were only 15 RMB each if we needed to use them, and if we got to the mountain and needed to purchase one, they would be between 30 and 40 RMB. We figured we had better be safe than sorry. I was certain that I would probably need them by the time we reached the peak of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.
The Honey-mooner who's wife had set out to Lugu Lake sat next to the driver in the front. He and the driver got in a very heated exchange that Fan said was about his fear that the driver would cheat him. I wasn't sure if I should be worried or if I should be thankful that he was making sure we wouldn't be cheated. Once we arrived at the gate to the mountain, we all had to pay 80 RMB to enter the park. This fee was a normal fee in Li Jiang for maintaining the Old Town in it's current condition. We were each given a receipt to prove that we paid the fee, and were able to enter several parts of Old Town Li Jiang with this receipt.
The drove on a bit into the park that surrounded the mountain. The park was in the 3000 meter range, and Fan was feeling the thin air. It was difficult for her to keep up with the rest of the group, and I was in no mood to rush. The couple and the lonely groom were headed directly to the line for the gondola up to the top of the mountain. We handed over our 120 RMB and let him buy the tickets for us. The system they used to fill the gondolas was the same as any official business in China...take a number.
We were going to have to wait at least and hour and a half to go, so we set out to experience the White River. The White river runs from the top of the mountain and has the clearest, bluest water I have ever seen outside of a swimming pool.The water was brilliant, and the foliage around the area was nothing less than spectacular in it's reds, yellows, oranges and light greens. I have never experienced such a gorgeous, crisp atmosphere with such amazingly beautiful water. There were 3 man-made dams where the bus stopped for us to view the river. The first of the three was amazing. It was a multi-teared dam that made puddle-like steps of water as it went down. The second and third dams were waterfalls, but just a little too uniform to be natural. Between the first and second dams were a few yaks with saddles on. Several tourist were sitting on them, taking photos for 10 RMB each. The yaks looked so fuzzy and lovable, I just wanted to pet their heads... I resisted the temptation, feeling they may be quite irritable considering the number of tourist they have to see every day.
We made our way down to the last damn and then loaded ourselves onto the little trolley-like tram that took us back to the buses so we could get in line for the gondola. Little did we know, when we arrived back at the terminal we had initially bought the tickets at, we had to catch another bus to get to the line for the gondola. We then waited in the line for the gondola for 2 hours. By the time we got to the head of the line, we were about ready to say forget it. The wind was preventing the gondolas from running regularly, and even though we could get in now, the thought of motion sickness occurred.
Once inside the tiny metal structure, we were all fine, and the wind wasn't strong enough during the ride up to give any of us any trouble. The sky was still almost completely clear. There were a few clouds that formed from the top of the mountain, but none that lingered long. They all seemed to evaporate quickly into nothingness.
Cold Oxygen Ahead:
I took my first tentative step onto the snow in my worn-out old Nike's. The slick packed snow didn't work well with the rubber treads in my shoes, there was nothing for them to grip, and I slipped a little as I made my way to the wooden walk-way. The sun was harsh and bright at this altitude. We started to brave the many steps to the top of the mountain. Fan was breathing heavily, and her lips were starting to turn purple. The temperature, as we had expected, was very cold and tended to bit through thin layers. Fortunately, we had both planned for this and wore our down coats and thick scarves. It took us quite a while to make it to the top. Fan had to stop at least 5-6 times to use the oxygen. I was very concerned, but the two men in the group tended to her and made sure she was breathing enough oxygen to make it. Once at the top, an altitude of 4,680 meters, we took the opportunity as a photo break. We all got shots at the top and then headed down. We were the last to descend from the peak, and thus had the honor of being the last tourists on the gondola. I had held out pretty well, not needing any oxygen, just a few breaks. I surprised myself.
Intestinal Anticipation:
Once back in the taxi, we were all happy to be down from the mountain, as beautiful as it was. We rode back into town and had dinner at a hot pot restaurant. The couple we were with really wanted to have intestines in the hot pot, and were polite enough to ask me if it was ok. Of course I couldn't say no, but this also meant that I would have to try some. I wasn't going to be rude. I waited as they lit the fire to the table and started the broth boiling, preparing myself to try something I had always told myself I wouldn't ever want to eat. I am aware that sausage is packed in intestines, but this is completely different. I didn't really know what to expect. When they brought out the plate of meats, black sheep meat and intestines, and slid it into the pot of bubbling water, I sat and watched the slices of rubber-hose looking intestines roll around. My mind went through every possible flavor/texture I could to prepare myself for the worst. It certainly looked clean. It wasn't discolored or slimy looking. It really, literally looked like medical grade rubber hose chopped up into bite sized pieces and slid into the broth. As soon as the boiling water had cooked the intestines and meats enough, I was encouraged to be the first to try the intestines. Of course, having prepared, I was ready. My real first impression was that it tastes exactly like it looks... flavorless and a bit chewy. The broth was a great compliment to the nothing flavor. The bit of chicken-like broth flavor was easy to handle. I must admit, I didn't chew it for long, being that I knew at some point I would realize what I was eating and might not be able to swallow it. I tried a few more pieces with the same result, little flavor and lots of chewing. I wasn't impressed or disappointed with this little flavor/texture adventure. The other dinner participants were greatly impressed that I actually ate some. They liked that I was willing to try their foods. Why not, they had obviously welcomed me into the group without question or discrimination. These were the kinds of people I enjoyed spending time with.
Just after the meal started, the lonely groom's wife appeared to share dinner with us. She appeared to be a very independent and strong woman. She shared her pears from Lugu Lake with us all and then told Fan about the beauty of the lake and the 'Most Hansom Man' in Lugu Lake and how she was a bit disappointed since he had gotten older. She convinced Fan that we should go in the morning. Fan had been trying to decide if we should just stay in Li Jiang or take the long ride out to Lugu Lake.
We finished the meal and paid the bill then caught a taxi back to Old Town with a bag full of scraps for the dogs. We were ready for a long trip the next day, not knowing how we were really going to get to Lugu Lake, just prepared for the bus ride.
Upon our arrival at the inn, the receptionist let us know that another couple was going to the Lake and we could join them on their bus. It would be a total of 120 RMB for the round trip. It sounded reasonable and we were prepared to go. Now the trick would be to get enough sleep despite our excitement.
Before Fan came to bed, she managed to wrangle us some companionship for the trip up to the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. There was a couple staying next door to us that was also going to make the trip, so we knew that it would be cheaper with more of us and the had already set up a taxi for the ride. We went out to have breakfast at the same place again, and found another companion for the trip. Fan convinced a honey-mooner that since his wife was off to Lugu lake, he should join us as well.
We all caught the cab that the couple had arranged for the trip to the mountain. The receptionist at the inn insisted that we take two bottles of oxygen. If we didn't use them, we wouldn't have to pay for them, but they were only 15 RMB each if we needed to use them, and if we got to the mountain and needed to purchase one, they would be between 30 and 40 RMB. We figured we had better be safe than sorry. I was certain that I would probably need them by the time we reached the peak of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.
The Honey-mooner who's wife had set out to Lugu Lake sat next to the driver in the front. He and the driver got in a very heated exchange that Fan said was about his fear that the driver would cheat him. I wasn't sure if I should be worried or if I should be thankful that he was making sure we wouldn't be cheated. Once we arrived at the gate to the mountain, we all had to pay 80 RMB to enter the park. This fee was a normal fee in Li Jiang for maintaining the Old Town in it's current condition. We were each given a receipt to prove that we paid the fee, and were able to enter several parts of Old Town Li Jiang with this receipt.
The drove on a bit into the park that surrounded the mountain. The park was in the 3000 meter range, and Fan was feeling the thin air. It was difficult for her to keep up with the rest of the group, and I was in no mood to rush. The couple and the lonely groom were headed directly to the line for the gondola up to the top of the mountain. We handed over our 120 RMB and let him buy the tickets for us. The system they used to fill the gondolas was the same as any official business in China...take a number.
We were going to have to wait at least and hour and a half to go, so we set out to experience the White River. The White river runs from the top of the mountain and has the clearest, bluest water I have ever seen outside of a swimming pool.The water was brilliant, and the foliage around the area was nothing less than spectacular in it's reds, yellows, oranges and light greens. I have never experienced such a gorgeous, crisp atmosphere with such amazingly beautiful water. There were 3 man-made dams where the bus stopped for us to view the river. The first of the three was amazing. It was a multi-teared dam that made puddle-like steps of water as it went down. The second and third dams were waterfalls, but just a little too uniform to be natural. Between the first and second dams were a few yaks with saddles on. Several tourist were sitting on them, taking photos for 10 RMB each. The yaks looked so fuzzy and lovable, I just wanted to pet their heads... I resisted the temptation, feeling they may be quite irritable considering the number of tourist they have to see every day.
We made our way down to the last damn and then loaded ourselves onto the little trolley-like tram that took us back to the buses so we could get in line for the gondola. Little did we know, when we arrived back at the terminal we had initially bought the tickets at, we had to catch another bus to get to the line for the gondola. We then waited in the line for the gondola for 2 hours. By the time we got to the head of the line, we were about ready to say forget it. The wind was preventing the gondolas from running regularly, and even though we could get in now, the thought of motion sickness occurred.
Once inside the tiny metal structure, we were all fine, and the wind wasn't strong enough during the ride up to give any of us any trouble. The sky was still almost completely clear. There were a few clouds that formed from the top of the mountain, but none that lingered long. They all seemed to evaporate quickly into nothingness.
Cold Oxygen Ahead:
I took my first tentative step onto the snow in my worn-out old Nike's. The slick packed snow didn't work well with the rubber treads in my shoes, there was nothing for them to grip, and I slipped a little as I made my way to the wooden walk-way. The sun was harsh and bright at this altitude. We started to brave the many steps to the top of the mountain. Fan was breathing heavily, and her lips were starting to turn purple. The temperature, as we had expected, was very cold and tended to bit through thin layers. Fortunately, we had both planned for this and wore our down coats and thick scarves. It took us quite a while to make it to the top. Fan had to stop at least 5-6 times to use the oxygen. I was very concerned, but the two men in the group tended to her and made sure she was breathing enough oxygen to make it. Once at the top, an altitude of 4,680 meters, we took the opportunity as a photo break. We all got shots at the top and then headed down. We were the last to descend from the peak, and thus had the honor of being the last tourists on the gondola. I had held out pretty well, not needing any oxygen, just a few breaks. I surprised myself.
Intestinal Anticipation:
Once back in the taxi, we were all happy to be down from the mountain, as beautiful as it was. We rode back into town and had dinner at a hot pot restaurant. The couple we were with really wanted to have intestines in the hot pot, and were polite enough to ask me if it was ok. Of course I couldn't say no, but this also meant that I would have to try some. I wasn't going to be rude. I waited as they lit the fire to the table and started the broth boiling, preparing myself to try something I had always told myself I wouldn't ever want to eat. I am aware that sausage is packed in intestines, but this is completely different. I didn't really know what to expect. When they brought out the plate of meats, black sheep meat and intestines, and slid it into the pot of bubbling water, I sat and watched the slices of rubber-hose looking intestines roll around. My mind went through every possible flavor/texture I could to prepare myself for the worst. It certainly looked clean. It wasn't discolored or slimy looking. It really, literally looked like medical grade rubber hose chopped up into bite sized pieces and slid into the broth. As soon as the boiling water had cooked the intestines and meats enough, I was encouraged to be the first to try the intestines. Of course, having prepared, I was ready. My real first impression was that it tastes exactly like it looks... flavorless and a bit chewy. The broth was a great compliment to the nothing flavor. The bit of chicken-like broth flavor was easy to handle. I must admit, I didn't chew it for long, being that I knew at some point I would realize what I was eating and might not be able to swallow it. I tried a few more pieces with the same result, little flavor and lots of chewing. I wasn't impressed or disappointed with this little flavor/texture adventure. The other dinner participants were greatly impressed that I actually ate some. They liked that I was willing to try their foods. Why not, they had obviously welcomed me into the group without question or discrimination. These were the kinds of people I enjoyed spending time with.
Just after the meal started, the lonely groom's wife appeared to share dinner with us. She appeared to be a very independent and strong woman. She shared her pears from Lugu Lake with us all and then told Fan about the beauty of the lake and the 'Most Hansom Man' in Lugu Lake and how she was a bit disappointed since he had gotten older. She convinced Fan that we should go in the morning. Fan had been trying to decide if we should just stay in Li Jiang or take the long ride out to Lugu Lake.
We finished the meal and paid the bill then caught a taxi back to Old Town with a bag full of scraps for the dogs. We were ready for a long trip the next day, not knowing how we were really going to get to Lugu Lake, just prepared for the bus ride.
Upon our arrival at the inn, the receptionist let us know that another couple was going to the Lake and we could join them on their bus. It would be a total of 120 RMB for the round trip. It sounded reasonable and we were prepared to go. Now the trick would be to get enough sleep despite our excitement.
Horse Riding again
Lashi Lake:
We just woke of our own accord in the morning, ready to find out how difficult it would be to plan a trip out to Lashi Lake. The morning was clear, crisp, and just a bit chilly. The altitude of the city was high enough to have been reported to give some people altitude sickness, but both of us were fine. We dress and prepared to greet the puppies down stairs. They were bustling about by this hour, it was about 9am, and happy to see people. Fan asked the inn attendant about getting a ride out to Lashi lake and how much it would cost. The attendant contacted a driver and informed us that it would be a bit expensive. Despite the fact that I felt 120 RMB wasn't excessive (20 USD) the truth was that it is excessive for the area, so we went to have breakfast and ask around about finding a better deal. We sat down and had some breakfast pizza and a bowl of noodles for breakfast. The 'pizza' consists of wheat breading with eggs and green onions with a bit of cilantro sprinkled inside. It is then folded in thirds and sliced into four pieces. The noodles had a chicken broth and were made of rice. Bits of cilantro and green onions floated in the broth as well as a nice portion of red pepper. The Southern provinces seem to enjoy very spicy and heartily seasoned dishes, even for breakfast. Since we were both still a slight bit hungry, Fan ordered what she referred to as a 'pancake' but was just a fried flat bread, thick with multiple layers and a crisp exterior. The bread was all cooked in a cast iron flat pan over a fire at the front of the restaurant just off the street. All of the food, though unfamiliar to me, was quite delicious, and the flavor wasn't too strong either. Typically I'm not much for spicy foods in the morning but I found it to be pleasing and a great start to an exciting and adventurous day.
Fan conversed with all the tourists at the table in the restaurant and found out that the trip could be much cheaper than the 120 RMB we were quoted, and also found that we could rent bicycles to go out to the lake. While she talked with the tourist, two women in red coats walked up, asking if we were looking for a trip out to Lashi lake, and offered to take us there for 5 RMB each. Having done research, and being well aware that once we were out to the lake, we would have to take a trip up the mountain on horse back, Fan prepared to bargain the price for the trip up the mountain down to 100 RMB per person. When we arrived at the lake, there was a posting of the prices for the trips up the mountain and a sales man pushing for the 280 RMB trip. Fan discussed the price with him in heated detail for about five to 10 minutes and got the price down to about half. Once we were on the horses, we were in for quite a ride. The guide handed Fan a thin twig to use as a switch for the horse since she would be in the lead. The trail was beautiful. The water for all of Li Jiang started up in the mountains here, and the small streams of it trickled to the lake beside the path.
As we rode past other groups of tourists, they all said 'Hello' and 'Ni Hao' to us. Everyone seemed to be in good spirits this after noon. We stopped at a small cluster of native houses who had set up some seating for guests under small wooden covers. The water before us was called the 7 colors lake. It was created by the source of the water. The natural spring that poured from the mountain was touted to make you healthier and fix your cough. Despite the clarity and chill of the water, I was unable to bring myself to drink any of it.
We rested for a while, here at the source of the water, and had two BBQ potatoes each. Chinese peel the skin off their potatoes, so I followed suit. The inner potato was just as delicious as any baked potato I have ever had. As soon as we finished our tea and potatoes, we were setting off back to the lake for our trip in a small boat out into the lake.
Fan requested that we have lunch before our outing onto the lake, and the food was a set meal. The cooks make the same meal for everyone, charging 10 RMB each. There was a potato dish, a pork dish, and sugared tomatoes for desert. Of course, the tea and rice came with the meal. It was a decent deal and filling after the ride. I couldn't complain.
There were ducks and small birds around the lake, floating and enjoying the waning sun. By the time we set out in the metal 'pig-trough' boat, we were full and happy. I was so very glad I didn't have to ride a horse anymore. I adore horses and love riding them, but the two hour ride had left me sore and raw. I experienced the same issues I had from the ride in Mongolia. Despite my immediate desire and love for riding, I was in no shape to get back on a horse any time soon.
The two women who had brought us to the lake, also joined us. They appeared quite happy, and ready to guide us to our next location. The village of Sue He is one of the Naxi villages in Li Jiang that is touristy, but is reported to still maintain a semblance of normal Naxi culture, unlike the part of Old Town Li Jiang we were staying in.
Out on the lake, our guide sang a bit of a song, then conversed with Fan about how he wanted us to run away to Li Jiang and not go home. The area was beautiful, but neither of us was ready to set up camp in such a remote area of China. While pushing us back to the shore, he continued to chat with Fan. The two guides pretty much ignored the conversation, and Fan continued to insist that we were going home.
Su He:
We made it back to the mini-van that had driven us out to the lake and rode on to Sue He. The trip took between five and ten minutes. We hadn't yet paid the guides or the driver yet, and were very curious how much the trip was going to cost us. When we arrived at Sue He, the driver dropped us off near the police station, and the guide lead us into the city. Once in the city, our guide requested 20 RMB each. Surprised at getting off so cheap, neither of us argued about the price, it was more than reasonable for the fuel and time they had all spent.
Inside the village, the sky was clouding up a bit, but the sun still cut across the roofs and colorful paint of the buildings. The streets and buildings were precise duplicates of the ones in the part of town that we stayed in. There were quite a few hotels, and behind them, resident dwellings. There were a few photography studios and the same shops lining the street that were in the other parts of town. The prices in these shops were more reasonable and the tourist numbers were far lower. In one of the stores, there was a photo set up with a Chairman Mao dummy. Fan took a photo of me with Chairman Mao, then I took a photo of her with him. Each of us paid 5 RMB for this privilege.
As the sun began to set, we discovered a small store with scarfs and a Naxi Princess costume. Fan convinced me, with a bit of cajoling, to pay the 10 RMB to wear the costume and take photos in it. The costume consisted of a skirt, shirt, two beaten silver neck adornments, and a large silver crown. Though I felt ridiculous in the get up, I was happy to have a ridiculous image to mark the journey. While removing the costume, the shop attendant informed Fan that the costume actually cost her 3,000 RMB.
Fan refused to try on the outfit, but we snapped a few photos of her on the bridges over the stream in the town. The sunset was beautiful and the light was perfect. Our adventure ended with dinner in a small local restaurant. We realized, once we sat down to eat, that this small place wasn't made for tourist, like the two we had eaten at the previous day. This dinner was still yak meat, but the other patrons were all residents of the town. We also had a green bean dish and a bowl of rice each.
Once finished, Fan convinced a driver to take us back to a transfer station in Li Jiang proper. The city was just as bustling and modern as any Chinese city I have ever experienced. The price for a bottle of water in the city was 1.5 RMB compared to the 2 RMB and 3 RMB they charge in any tourist area. Fan chatted with some locals and found out that our hotel wasn't far enough for us to need to take a taxi, so we just walked the 10 minutes back to the Hotel. Taxis aren't allowed on the streets of Old Town Li Jiang, so it would have been silly to try and take one there anyway.
We showered and went to bed, ready to conquer the mountain in the morning.
We just woke of our own accord in the morning, ready to find out how difficult it would be to plan a trip out to Lashi Lake. The morning was clear, crisp, and just a bit chilly. The altitude of the city was high enough to have been reported to give some people altitude sickness, but both of us were fine. We dress and prepared to greet the puppies down stairs. They were bustling about by this hour, it was about 9am, and happy to see people. Fan asked the inn attendant about getting a ride out to Lashi lake and how much it would cost. The attendant contacted a driver and informed us that it would be a bit expensive. Despite the fact that I felt 120 RMB wasn't excessive (20 USD) the truth was that it is excessive for the area, so we went to have breakfast and ask around about finding a better deal. We sat down and had some breakfast pizza and a bowl of noodles for breakfast. The 'pizza' consists of wheat breading with eggs and green onions with a bit of cilantro sprinkled inside. It is then folded in thirds and sliced into four pieces. The noodles had a chicken broth and were made of rice. Bits of cilantro and green onions floated in the broth as well as a nice portion of red pepper. The Southern provinces seem to enjoy very spicy and heartily seasoned dishes, even for breakfast. Since we were both still a slight bit hungry, Fan ordered what she referred to as a 'pancake' but was just a fried flat bread, thick with multiple layers and a crisp exterior. The bread was all cooked in a cast iron flat pan over a fire at the front of the restaurant just off the street. All of the food, though unfamiliar to me, was quite delicious, and the flavor wasn't too strong either. Typically I'm not much for spicy foods in the morning but I found it to be pleasing and a great start to an exciting and adventurous day.
Fan conversed with all the tourists at the table in the restaurant and found out that the trip could be much cheaper than the 120 RMB we were quoted, and also found that we could rent bicycles to go out to the lake. While she talked with the tourist, two women in red coats walked up, asking if we were looking for a trip out to Lashi lake, and offered to take us there for 5 RMB each. Having done research, and being well aware that once we were out to the lake, we would have to take a trip up the mountain on horse back, Fan prepared to bargain the price for the trip up the mountain down to 100 RMB per person. When we arrived at the lake, there was a posting of the prices for the trips up the mountain and a sales man pushing for the 280 RMB trip. Fan discussed the price with him in heated detail for about five to 10 minutes and got the price down to about half. Once we were on the horses, we were in for quite a ride. The guide handed Fan a thin twig to use as a switch for the horse since she would be in the lead. The trail was beautiful. The water for all of Li Jiang started up in the mountains here, and the small streams of it trickled to the lake beside the path.
As we rode past other groups of tourists, they all said 'Hello' and 'Ni Hao' to us. Everyone seemed to be in good spirits this after noon. We stopped at a small cluster of native houses who had set up some seating for guests under small wooden covers. The water before us was called the 7 colors lake. It was created by the source of the water. The natural spring that poured from the mountain was touted to make you healthier and fix your cough. Despite the clarity and chill of the water, I was unable to bring myself to drink any of it.
We rested for a while, here at the source of the water, and had two BBQ potatoes each. Chinese peel the skin off their potatoes, so I followed suit. The inner potato was just as delicious as any baked potato I have ever had. As soon as we finished our tea and potatoes, we were setting off back to the lake for our trip in a small boat out into the lake.
Fan requested that we have lunch before our outing onto the lake, and the food was a set meal. The cooks make the same meal for everyone, charging 10 RMB each. There was a potato dish, a pork dish, and sugared tomatoes for desert. Of course, the tea and rice came with the meal. It was a decent deal and filling after the ride. I couldn't complain.
There were ducks and small birds around the lake, floating and enjoying the waning sun. By the time we set out in the metal 'pig-trough' boat, we were full and happy. I was so very glad I didn't have to ride a horse anymore. I adore horses and love riding them, but the two hour ride had left me sore and raw. I experienced the same issues I had from the ride in Mongolia. Despite my immediate desire and love for riding, I was in no shape to get back on a horse any time soon.
The two women who had brought us to the lake, also joined us. They appeared quite happy, and ready to guide us to our next location. The village of Sue He is one of the Naxi villages in Li Jiang that is touristy, but is reported to still maintain a semblance of normal Naxi culture, unlike the part of Old Town Li Jiang we were staying in.
Out on the lake, our guide sang a bit of a song, then conversed with Fan about how he wanted us to run away to Li Jiang and not go home. The area was beautiful, but neither of us was ready to set up camp in such a remote area of China. While pushing us back to the shore, he continued to chat with Fan. The two guides pretty much ignored the conversation, and Fan continued to insist that we were going home.
Su He:
We made it back to the mini-van that had driven us out to the lake and rode on to Sue He. The trip took between five and ten minutes. We hadn't yet paid the guides or the driver yet, and were very curious how much the trip was going to cost us. When we arrived at Sue He, the driver dropped us off near the police station, and the guide lead us into the city. Once in the city, our guide requested 20 RMB each. Surprised at getting off so cheap, neither of us argued about the price, it was more than reasonable for the fuel and time they had all spent.
Inside the village, the sky was clouding up a bit, but the sun still cut across the roofs and colorful paint of the buildings. The streets and buildings were precise duplicates of the ones in the part of town that we stayed in. There were quite a few hotels, and behind them, resident dwellings. There were a few photography studios and the same shops lining the street that were in the other parts of town. The prices in these shops were more reasonable and the tourist numbers were far lower. In one of the stores, there was a photo set up with a Chairman Mao dummy. Fan took a photo of me with Chairman Mao, then I took a photo of her with him. Each of us paid 5 RMB for this privilege.
As the sun began to set, we discovered a small store with scarfs and a Naxi Princess costume. Fan convinced me, with a bit of cajoling, to pay the 10 RMB to wear the costume and take photos in it. The costume consisted of a skirt, shirt, two beaten silver neck adornments, and a large silver crown. Though I felt ridiculous in the get up, I was happy to have a ridiculous image to mark the journey. While removing the costume, the shop attendant informed Fan that the costume actually cost her 3,000 RMB.
Fan refused to try on the outfit, but we snapped a few photos of her on the bridges over the stream in the town. The sunset was beautiful and the light was perfect. Our adventure ended with dinner in a small local restaurant. We realized, once we sat down to eat, that this small place wasn't made for tourist, like the two we had eaten at the previous day. This dinner was still yak meat, but the other patrons were all residents of the town. We also had a green bean dish and a bowl of rice each.
Once finished, Fan convinced a driver to take us back to a transfer station in Li Jiang proper. The city was just as bustling and modern as any Chinese city I have ever experienced. The price for a bottle of water in the city was 1.5 RMB compared to the 2 RMB and 3 RMB they charge in any tourist area. Fan chatted with some locals and found out that our hotel wasn't far enough for us to need to take a taxi, so we just walked the 10 minutes back to the Hotel. Taxis aren't allowed on the streets of Old Town Li Jiang, so it would have been silly to try and take one there anyway.
We showered and went to bed, ready to conquer the mountain in the morning.
Wednesday, November 26, 2008
Flying away to Li Jiang
Flight to Li Jiang:
Cullen escorted me downstairs to catch a taxi at about 5:40am. The air was a damp coldness that bit through our clothes. The temperature was below freezing, and the quiet of the street only emphasized the chill. It only took a few moments to catch a cab, which is typical. As I pointed to the airport terminal that I wanted to go to on the map, Cullen closed the taxi door, and I was off for my first adventure without him in China.
The taxi ride took about an hour. It was quiet on the streets so early in the morning. I was looking forward to sleeping in the plane. I had only gotten about 3 hours rest the night before, and really wanted some sleep now. I struggled to stay awake in the taxi, but once we arrived at the airport, I slung my backpack on and went into the huge airport awake and excited. Fan suggested we meet at about 7:20am since our flight was to leave at 8:35am. I arrived at the airport extremely early and was ready to wait. Fan arrived at 7:00am and we checked in. I didn't have any baggage to check, but had a large rolling bag that was currently about 1/2 empty. When she arrived, the airport was just starting to liven a bit. We made through security and back to the gate with no trouble. The waiting area was starting to get pack, but still had available seating for us. It wasn't an unpleasant wait for the plane. The announcements in the airport were in Chinese and in English, so there was no trouble knowing what was going on once we were in the waiting area.
We boarded the plane on time, and the flight was pretty uneventful. They do tend to cry wolf about turbulence though. It appears that all Chinese flights are this way, since no one even paid any attention to fact that you shouldn't use the lavatory during turbulence. There was a constant stream of people back to them during the 3 hour flight.
They served us breakfast on the flight wich consisted of hot noodles, 2 types of bread (a bun and a muffin), as well as fruit and some processed meat product cut into rounds on top of some veggies. I was surprised at the amount of food they serve on the flight, even though it is just small portions of each. There is lots of flavor and nutrition in the food as well, compared to the microwaved dishes I am used to on flights.
The flight landed in Kunming on time, and we collected Fan's checked baggage then headed to KFC for lunch. Our flight to Li Jiang wasn't until 3pm and we arrived around noon, so we had plenty of time to relax in the airport's KFC. We stayed in KFC until around 1:50 then went to check in again and head to the gate for our flight to Li Jiang. The wait was again, not unpleasant, and there were enough seats for us to not feel rushed. We were taken out to the plane on a bus. The flight was again, uneventful. The flight time from Kunming to Li Jiang was only 45 min., so it was mostly just an ascent then a decent. There wasn't much time between the two. On the flight, Fan started a conversation with the passenger that was sitting on the aisle seat beside her. The woman was a resident of Li Jiang, and a freelance journalist/photographer. She invited us to her home while we were in Li Jiang. She didn't speak much English, but she did say hello to me and show me a picture of her lovely little poodle named 'Happy'.
We arrived, once again, on time. We weren't greeted with a bus this time, we were just expected to walk into the airport arrival terminal. It wasn't too far, but was an interesting experience. The airport only has 4 terminals. All on ground level. This was my first experience with such a small airport.
Fan had arrange for us to have a mini-van come and pick us up at the airport for 60 RMB (10 USD) which was a fair price, considering the distance the airport is from 'Old Town' Li Jiang, where our inn was located. The ride was interesting. We passed several black smoke clouds that contained trucks, and the view of the mountain range was spectacular.
Dogs of Paradise:
After arriving at the Inn, I realized why it is considered an 'inn' and not a hotel. I believe there were a total of 8 rooms available for booking. There were five up-stairs rooms and 2 down-stairs rooms. All of the rooms were similarly equipped with a modern bathroom, TV and beds. They were all beautifully furnished and completely constructed of wood. I soon came to find that Li Jiang and the surrounding areas had no shortage of wood. The windows were all equipped with beautifully ornamental shudders. The carvings were mostly the likeness of animals and trees. There were loads of colors and beautiful fabrics used in the decorating of the rooms. The sheets smelled of fresh bleach, and the bathroom was clean and furnished with modern facilities (this is not always the case in China). The bathroom was only furnished with complimentary shampoo, conditioner, and hand soap. It was suggested by Fan, prior to our leaving, that I bring anything I might need to bathe with me. I had forgotten to bring a towel, so had to borrow one from the inn, but other than that, we were set.
The inn had about 4 resident dogs. One, obviously having had at least one litter, and 3 males. The largest of the dogs was a chow. His temperament was not what I normally expect from these dogs. His name was 'Happy' in Chinese. He appeared to be the dominant dog. The other 2 males were relatively passive. The black and white little male was very attention hungry, and the orange and white was missing an eye from a fight with the dog next door. They were all very sweet and loving. They didn't skitter about like frightened dogs, nor did they hop around like puppies. It was truly pleasant to have such company in the hotel while we stayed. I dearly miss the girls.
After dropping off our luggage in the room, we headed out to have some dinner and a look around in Li Jiang. We found a few really popular restaurants, and opted for a more quite location for our first dinner in this popular Chinese tourist town. We found a nice place away from most of the nightlife. The dinner was a nice pan-fried dish with yak meat and a veggie plate with potatoes to top our bowl of rice.
While eating our meal, two western tourists requested a peak at our map. I speculate, from their accent, that they were either French or Spanish. They looked more Spanish but Europe is so small, there really is no telling. They didn't speak much, just enoughs to get their bearings and were on their way. A mangy dog visited us while we ate as well. She was apparently a nursing mother, but looked so very gaunt. I had to restrain myself from feeding her some of our food. She could have fared far better at another restaurant, where there were more customers.
Inside the restaurant, there were many bottles of fermenting wine. Fan explained that it was Chinese medicine in the bottles. The contents ranged from Fruits and berries to chopped up Bull testicles. Though amazed, I was not surprised. The stories of Chinese medicine are not unfounded. It truly is a very interesting, and unscientific practice that is extremely prevalent in China.It appears to be far more prevalent outside the big cities.
The sun had fallen by the time we finished our meal, and so we started to wander the streets of 'Old Town' Li Jiang. The stone streets are not designed for driving. As a matter of fact, it is forbidden to drive a car on the streets of Old Town. They even ask that bicycles be walked through the streets and not ridden. Despite these rules, we had to move out of the way of a few cars and motorcycles several times.
Equipped with a map, we headed to the Square. Li Jiang's night life is famous in China. There is a beautiful stream running through the center of 'Old Town' and near the square, the stream is linned with bars and restaraunts. It was near 9pm by the time we made our way to the square. We had stopped to take a quick look at the different and interesting items in the small shops.
The noise from the square reached us long before we even saw the beautiful waterway. There were a few Styrofoam lotus flowers floating in the river with candles in the center. You could pay an amount to make a wish and float the candle on the stream. There were also coy fish you could buy to release into the stream to make your life long and peaceful. The warm glow of the red Chinese lanterns illuminated all the streets. People sat around fires in some of the bars and sang very loud songs to each other. In other bars there were dancing areas. The bar waitresses and waiters were dressed in traditional local clothes. The area was loud and full of energy. There were a few hotels higher up on the side of the hill that contained 'Old Town' and we decided to have a look. Circling in the air above the hotel, in the night lights, we could see swarming bats. Their cries were so very distinctly bat cries. I asked Fan if she knew anything about bats, but she said there weren't bats in China. Despite her lack of faith in my observation skills, I was certain they had to be bats. The night was too dark for them to have been birds, and much less, birds that would sing at night.
The view from the top of the hill was amazing. All the red and yellow lights from the town were glowing in a sea of corrugated Chinese roofing. As we sat and sipped our drinks, my hot chocolate and her hot milk, we relaxed and breathed the fresh mountain air. The sky had been clear and beautiful during the day, and the night was proving just as clear and lovely as the stars punctured the black of the sky with their white light. We conspired to head to Lasha lake the next day and then headed back to the inn.
Tuesday, November 18, 2008
1 year ago
Today, November 18th, was our anniversary. In celebration, Cullen and I decided to take a day out of life and spend time together. The apartment smells like the lilies that Cullen bought for me, how wonderful.
Tomorrow I leave for Li Jiang. 8:35am flight. phew!
Tomorrow I leave for Li Jiang. 8:35am flight. phew!
Sunday, November 16, 2008
Warm cozy coats and hats
In Preparation:
I am attempting to collect all the necessary articles for the trip on Wednesday. Not only was I missing a few essential articles, but I had an aversion to buying one of them. I have never really liked things on my head, but I truly need a hat for the cold winter in Beijing, and more immediately, for the trip up the mountain in Li Jiang. To make matters worse, I only had 3 days left to find it. The pressure and the need collided today, and we went out to find me a hat.
Yesterday, we actually made the purchase of a fine black down winter coat. The coat is not only light, but very warm, as I tested today. We considered having one made, but there were so many that were already lingering about, it didn't really seem necessary. We went to one of the small shopping stores near our house and purchased the winning jacket rather quickly, and for less than $20 USD.
Today was another story. Since I have a hard time picking hats, I was very slow at deciding on a purchase. The selection was enormous, and there were so many nice knit caps... I just couldn't imagine purchasing one of them. I couldn't see myself in one. Though the vendors pulled out their mirrors and popped a few on my head, it took a charming young man of no more than 2 to lure me into a purchase. He started a conversation with Cullen (Cullen and I didn't understand him, but laughed at his determination to interact with us). He offered Cullen some of his beverage, then his mother sent him off. The hat I decided on had a matching scarf, both made of angora wool. It was reasonably priced for a scarf and hat, so the purchase wasn't too painful. Cullen actually bargained for another hat for me as well. So now I have two warm knit winter caps that don't make me feel too silly.
The last thing, that I am not sure we will be able to find before Wednesday, is some motion-sickness medication. We will be in the car for an extended period of time, and the possibility of already being sick from the altitude combined with the car ride, might just push me over the edge. It's always better to be prepared for the occasion than not anyway.
I will be flying out of Beijing to Li Jiang on Wednesday. The flight leaves early in the morning and will be a day full of the same sitting an luggage toting as usual. I am curious as to the Chinese protocol with the airport. What will it be like compared to the states? How will the service on the flight be? Will there be any service?
This is going to be such an exciting adventure. I wish Cullen were coming with me. I will be exciting regardless.
I am attempting to collect all the necessary articles for the trip on Wednesday. Not only was I missing a few essential articles, but I had an aversion to buying one of them. I have never really liked things on my head, but I truly need a hat for the cold winter in Beijing, and more immediately, for the trip up the mountain in Li Jiang. To make matters worse, I only had 3 days left to find it. The pressure and the need collided today, and we went out to find me a hat.
Yesterday, we actually made the purchase of a fine black down winter coat. The coat is not only light, but very warm, as I tested today. We considered having one made, but there were so many that were already lingering about, it didn't really seem necessary. We went to one of the small shopping stores near our house and purchased the winning jacket rather quickly, and for less than $20 USD.
Today was another story. Since I have a hard time picking hats, I was very slow at deciding on a purchase. The selection was enormous, and there were so many nice knit caps... I just couldn't imagine purchasing one of them. I couldn't see myself in one. Though the vendors pulled out their mirrors and popped a few on my head, it took a charming young man of no more than 2 to lure me into a purchase. He started a conversation with Cullen (Cullen and I didn't understand him, but laughed at his determination to interact with us). He offered Cullen some of his beverage, then his mother sent him off. The hat I decided on had a matching scarf, both made of angora wool. It was reasonably priced for a scarf and hat, so the purchase wasn't too painful. Cullen actually bargained for another hat for me as well. So now I have two warm knit winter caps that don't make me feel too silly.
The last thing, that I am not sure we will be able to find before Wednesday, is some motion-sickness medication. We will be in the car for an extended period of time, and the possibility of already being sick from the altitude combined with the car ride, might just push me over the edge. It's always better to be prepared for the occasion than not anyway.
I will be flying out of Beijing to Li Jiang on Wednesday. The flight leaves early in the morning and will be a day full of the same sitting an luggage toting as usual. I am curious as to the Chinese protocol with the airport. What will it be like compared to the states? How will the service on the flight be? Will there be any service?
This is going to be such an exciting adventure. I wish Cullen were coming with me. I will be exciting regardless.
Sunday, November 9, 2008
Travel Preperations
First things first... 31 days from today we will be heading home right about now... (1:31pm) so this marks the 31 day point!! How EXCITING! We miss you all so much!
Fan has invited me to take a short trip with her, so next week (Nov. 19th) I will be leaving Cullen to fend for himself for 6 days. He is very excited for me... maybe he's just excited that he will be able to relax for a few days alone.
We are headed to LIJIANG in YUNNAN province. For information on travel in LIJIANG go here:
http://www.travelchinaguide.com/cityguides/lijiang.htm
Fan invited me because her husband was unable to go. They are such busy people.
The temperature right now in Beijing is ranging anywhere between 57F and 44F during the day and down to 32 and lower at night... this Friday is supposed to be 24F at night. I have become a bit concerned about the trip weather, and have been reassured that it is warmer during the day in LIJIANG than in Beijing. How wonderful.
I will definitely post more about the trip.
Fan has invited me to take a short trip with her, so next week (Nov. 19th) I will be leaving Cullen to fend for himself for 6 days. He is very excited for me... maybe he's just excited that he will be able to relax for a few days alone.
We are headed to LIJIANG in YUNNAN province. For information on travel in LIJIANG go here:
http://www.travelchinaguide.com/cityguides/lijiang.htm
Fan invited me because her husband was unable to go. They are such busy people.
The temperature right now in Beijing is ranging anywhere between 57F and 44F during the day and down to 32 and lower at night... this Friday is supposed to be 24F at night. I have become a bit concerned about the trip weather, and have been reassured that it is warmer during the day in LIJIANG than in Beijing. How wonderful.
I will definitely post more about the trip.
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